A Duck That Dreamed

A lego duck. I made it myself.

Many of you readers (i.e. those whom I formerly referred to as friends) have sent me birthday messages as I celebrated this week in France. Instead of thanking you all individually, I thought it best to do so here all at once, and will even now reply with an inspirational message of my own.

On my 37th birthday I made the above duck out of lego. When I was 36 I was unsure if I had the ability to construct something visual in my mind and realise it materially. However I persevered through doubt, and decided to practise everyday no matter what the inner voices insisted. A few months later, all on my own, with no instructions, I created this duck - entirely from my imagination. While I'm grateful for you all who celebrated me this week, I'd like you all to take a moment to think about your own doubts, your own dreams, and know whatever they are, you can do it.

This week’s post is shorter due to travel, birthdays, and the unexpected strain of turning 37. It is likely also too much to ask of myself (or any human) to display equal mastery of both lego duck construction and writing within a single week. Normal service resumes shortly.

Birthday Barbecue

Aubergines, courgettes, tomatoes - I was planning on writing a collection of recipes that make use of these emblems of summer (ratatouille, grilled vegetable salad, caponata… ok that’s all I can actually think of, but three recipes is quite enough anyway), though we’ll make do today with how to navigate them on barbecue.

The below is a good way to make use of the different phases of heat a barbecue produces.

Ingredients

2 Aubergines
3 Courgettes
2 Tomatoes
A large, wild seabass
Garlic & Herbs & Olive oil & Anchovies (for green sauce)

Method

Light your barbecue.

Make green sauce by getting some garlic and herbs (parsley and basil in this case) and anchovies and salt and either chopping it all finely and then adding oil, or putting it with oil in a blender. I prefer the former route, but took the latter as it’s my birthday and I wanted to spend more time drinking beer and eating salami on the terrace, and less time chopping parsley. Quantities are not important in green sauce so mix with abandon.

Cut courgettes in half lengthwise. Score the flesh and rub a good amount of salt into them. Place them in a bowl while you wait to cook them. The salt will draw out the water, which you should discard from the bowl before cooking.

Cut the aubergines into slices about 1-2cm thick.

Cut the tomatoes in half.

When the flames have gone down, but the coals are still hot - it’s time to kick off with the veg.

(Though if you’re being extravagant as we were, you may even have a quick starter to throw on at this point first, such as cuttlefish fillets that need mere minutes per side and can be enjoyed with champagne)

Put the tomatoes on, and liberally olive oil the aubergines and courgettes before putting them on too. Salt the aubergines on the side that is showing on the barbecue. When you turn them, salt them again. Keep turning every minute or two until they pierce easily with a fork and the inside feels almost molten and gooey, while the outside is charred and crisp.

Turn the courgettes and tomatoes until they are well coloured too. Remove them to a plate and allow to cool. If the coals have cooled sufficiently to become a sort of merry glow under ashen cheeks, it’s time for your fish. Apply a little olive oil all over it and salt it. Put it in on the grill. Turn after about ten minutes. It’s not the end of the world if the skin burns a bit. After ten minutes the skin should be quite crisp and you can flip it over just by nudging it with a spatula. If it doesn’t turn easily, it probably hasn’t been cooked long enough. Give it another ten minutes.

In meantime skin the grilled tomatoes and cut into big chunks, chop the aubergines and courgettes into 1-2 inch pieces, and mix all together with salt to taste, a splash of vinegar, olive oil, and maybe a spoonful or two of green sauce. There’s no right way to dress this; vinaigrette, aioli, whole bunches of fresh herbs - anything you have lying around can get in. Sharpness (vinegar, garlic) and freshness (herbs), these are the two counterpoints that the smoky vegetables require. The salad can be prepared like this and left to sit until you’re ready to eat.

Finally chuck some slices of baguette on the last of the heat, and mound in a pile with some oil drizzled on top. Serve all together and say happy birthday.